Buckwheat pancakes with smoked salmon

This version of blini — a tribute to the Russian communities throughout the New York metropolitan area — is fast because it does not require yeast. If buckwheat flour is unavailable, whole-wheat flour makes a good substitute.

Makes 18 to 20 hors d'oeuvres.

1/2 cup all-purpose flour, 1/2 cup buckwheat flour*, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1/4 teaspoon baking soda, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 2 large eggs, separated, 1/2 cup milk, 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, melted

For topping: 1/2 cup sour cream, 1/8 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon black pepper, 8 oz thinly sliced smoked salmon, cut into small pieces

Make pancakes: Whisk together dry ingredients in a large bowl. Whisk together yolks and milk in a small bowl, then whisk into dry ingredients. Beat egg whites in another large bowl with an electric mixer until they hold soft peaks, then fold into flour mixture. Add 3 tablespoons butter and fold until batter is smooth.
Lightly brush a 10- to 12-inch nonstick skillet with some of remaining butter, then heat over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Working in batches of 4, spoon about 1 1/2 tablespoons batter per pancake into skillet and cook until surface of pancakes bubbles, 1 to 2 minutes, then flip and cook 1 minute more. Transfer to a plate and keep warm, covered. Brush skillet with butter between batches.

Make topping: Stir together all topping ingredients except salmon until combined, then dollop on pancakes and top with salmon.

*Available at natural foods stores.