I wanted to share this recipe with you while fresh sweet corn is still available. The recipe was developed in the CHOW test kitchen by Christine Gallary and she's created a soup that is truly memorable. Using a handful of inexpensive ingredients and simple techniques, she has produced one of the best corn soups that I have ever tasted. The soup is a bit messy to make because you have to strip kernels from the cob and then strain the finished soup through a fine mesh sieve before serving. Let me assure you, it's worth the effort. I am, however, ever mindful that time is precious, so I also tested this recipe using frozen shoepeg and standard corn. I found the shoepeg corn to be a great substitute for fresh kernels, but the results were less than spectacular when I used other varieties of frozen corn. I, obviously, was trying to find a way to extend the season for this soup. It is that good. I don't want to bore you with minutia, so let's get right to the recipe. Here's how the soup is made.

Chipotle Corn Soup

Ingredients:

8 ears white or yellow corn, shucked (about 6 cups)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter (1/4 stick)

1/2 teaspoon minced chipotles in adobo sauce

2 teaspoons kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6 scallions, thinly sliced (white and light green parts only)

1-1/2 cups whole milk

1-1/2 cups water

Directions:

1) Remove corn kernels from cobs: Place a large container on a damp towel. Fold a paper towel into fourths and place it inside container. Stand one ear of corn on paper towel, using the stem as a handle. Using a paring knife, slice downward, letting kernels fall into container. Rotate cob and continue until all kernels have been removed. Discard the cob. Repeat with remaining corn (you should have about 6 cups of kernels). Discard paper towel. Set aside 1/2 cup of kernels.

2) Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat until foaming. Add chipotles, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, a pinch of black pepper, and two-thirds of scallions. (Set aside remaining scallions to use as a garnish.) Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions have softened, about 3 minutes.

3) Add corn kernels, remaining 1-1/2 teaspoons salt, milk, and water and stir to combine. Increase heat to medium high and bring mixture to a gentle boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until the flavors have melded and corn kernels are crisp yet tender (not mushy), about 15 minutes.

4) Set a fine-mesh strainer over a large, heatproof bowl. Using a blender, pur