When folks talk about the food of Sichuan, three dishes usually come to mind. Almost everyone has heard of Ma Po Tofu, Dan Dan Noodles and Kung Pao Chicken. Made according to Hoyle, these dishes are fiery hot, will clear the nostrils and quite possibly grow hair on your chest. Not everyone can handle the heat associated with the food of this province. I happen to love it  and only complain when it finally numbs my sense of taste.  The Silver Fox has a much lower tolerance, so, when it comes to Sichuan cooking, we are truly a culinary odd couple. Kung Pao Chicken is wonderfully nuanced and with, or without, extreme heat, it is a delicious dish. My version of it is based in equal measure on recipes developed by Mark Bittman and Nancie McDermott.  I've cut way back on the heat they use at the request of the Silver Fox. That is why I've called my version of the dish Kung Pao-ish. I didn't want to short-change those of you who might want to see the recipe in its purest form, so I've given a range for quantities for heat producing ingredients. One of those ingredients is Sichuan peppercorns. They are  actually the husk from seeds of a shrub called the Prickly Ash. Sichuan pepper has a unique aroma and flavor that is not hot or pungent; it has a lemony overtone that creates a tingly numbness on the tip of the tongue. The Chinese call this sensation "ma la" which means numbing and spicy. While they are a staple in Asian markets, they may be hard for some of you to find. There really is no substitute for them, so it's best just to continue without them if they are not available.  This recipe seems long at first glance, but that's because the ingredients for the marinade and sauce are listed separately. In truth, both steps can be completed in about 10 minutes. While there is wait time involved, the recipe comes together quickly and is actually easy to prepare. This version of the dish is really delicious and I hope you will give it a try. Here's the recipe.

Kung Pao-ish Chicken

Ingredients:

Marinade
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

Sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or Chenkiang vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon salt

Chicken
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/4 to 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

1/4 to 1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns, toasted and crushed (optional)

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped garlic

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

1/4 cup coarsely chopped green onion

1/2 cup cup roasted, salted peanuts

1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

Directions:

1) Chop chicken into 1-inch chunks. Combine soy sauce, sherry, cornstarch, and vegetable oil in a medium bowl. Mix well. Add chicken and toss to coat evenly with marinade. Set aside for 30 to 60 minutes, or refrigerate, covered, for up to one day.

2) Combine soy sauce, sherry, vinegar, sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a small bowl. Stir to dissolve dry ingredients. Mix well.

3) Heat a wok or a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add vegetable oil. Swirl to coat pan. When oil is hot, but not smoking, add red pepper flakes and, if using, Sichuan peppercorns. Toss or stir until fragrant, about 1 minute.

4) Add chicken to pan in a single layer, if possible. Cook for 1 minute without stirring. Then toss. Add garlic, ginger and green onions and cook for 2 minutes, or until chicken has changed color and is cooked through.

5) Stir sauce and add to pan. Cook and stir, or toss, for 1 minute longer. Add peanuts and sesame oil and toss again to mix. Transfer to a serving  platter. Serve hot or warm. Yield: 4 servings.

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